This beautiful new 2016 500 EXC looks like it's floating on air because it's the bike of Sam Jones - an extremely famous photographer, film maker, and TV host - and he took the picture.
You can see his work at and
The point is, he could afford anyone, and any products for his bike. But - after researching the best person for the job, he called us. And we appreciate that.
Now let’s dive into the Ultimate 2012-16 KTM 250 / 350 / 500 EXC Bike Build and see what we can do to make some quick improvements right away.
Anti-Vibration Wheel Balancing Weights
If you’re making your bike faster using our parts... you're definitely going to want to add our stainless steel WHEEL BALANCING WEIGHTS, to eliminate the speed wobbles.
If you were riding home from the dealer and got over 55-60 mph, or ever plan to, you'll notice that the front end starts to shake pretty bad and hop around.
This is because the wheels are out of balance by quite a bit. KTM and Husky wheels have the rim lock and valve stem close to each other, as represented by the smiley face stickers in the picture.
The best way to balance the front and rear wheel is to use our wheel weights.
Just screw down tight to the spokes directly across from the center line, between the rim lock and valve stem. Push the curved side up tight to the spoke nipples and tighten.
And they're designed to stay in place even in extreme off-road conditions.
If you want to grab a set of our WHEEL BALANCING WEIGHTS you can buy them below for only $14.95 each.
When improving this bike, no matter what displacement, or if you have the EXC / XCW or Husky FE-S - we’ll use the weakest link theory.
That is, let's fix the most annoying problem first, and then move on to the next one.
After fixing the obvious things, you will most likely want more power.
Or you might want to fix other things like the bike running hot, or seeming like it's running lean.
The first thing you will want to do, to increase performance and get rid of the annoying backfiring, is to remove the emissions.
Emission Removal Kit for Closed-Course Racing
Our Emission Removal Kit gives you everything you need to get rid of everything.
And we even include a new bolt, to replace your kickstand bolt and get the kickstand to go all the way down.
Many times the dealers have fixed the kickstand before they sell it, but if not, the bolt is here.
The kits don't have specific instructions for the 12-16 bikes anymore, but the instructions that come with it, for the 17-18 bikes are so similar, it should be very easy for you to figure out.
You can pick up this kit below for only $19.95.
The next thing to do to protect your bike and ensure the performance you are about to give it, is to use our high-flow fuel components.
Large Area Fuel Filter
First up is our Large Area Fuel Filter. It replaces one side of your quick disconnect, to save room, and has a filter capacity of 6 times larger than the stock filter.
On the right in the image below, you’ll see the stock part (the quick disconnect half) that holds a tiny stock filter.
And on the left you can see our new quick disconnect filter that’s much larger (it’s the round disc in between the two open sides).
Ours is almost 6 times bigger, and it's still the same amount of filtration as stock (10 microns), but it will never clog and flows much easier for the snappiest response.
Our filter acts as the quick disconnect half of your fuel line, and tucks in perfectly, out of the way with a simple zip tie.
It’s very easy to check, or clean out, and you’ll likely be very glad you added it.
If you want to add the LARGE AREA FUEL FILTER as part of the ultimate fuel delivery system, you can do so below for only: $49.95
Exaust End Caps
The stock muffler design is actually fantastic, but the end cap design is very restrictive and holds back all the power.
The power is held back because the exhaust pressure can't get out. This causes the bike to run hot, and also, to feel like it's vibrating. The vibrating is actually a throbbing feeling, because the pressure can't escape so you feel it through the bike.
The solution is to open up the exhaust, which will fix a few problems, and inherently cause a different problem.
The end cap on the left, is the stock EXC and FE-S end cap. The middle cap is from the XCW or FE model and the cap on the right, is our PQP (power quiet pipes) end cap.
The dyno chart below shows the difference between the XCW cap (the less restrictive one) and our STE cap. It's just as quiet but makes 3-4 hp more.
The STE cap makes 6-7 more HP over the EXC cap and is almost as quiet.
The use of the STE-2 end cap, is the best thing you can do to start making power, as it fixes the next weak link.
You can learn more about exhaust options, and see more dyno charts by clicking here. Or you can pick up the STE-2 below for only $149.95
Next… when you open up the exhaust flow, you automatically make the bike run leaner. The EXC's are lean enough at 1/8 to 1/3 throttle openings as it is. The XCW models are just a little richer in this area. The EXC's are programmed to run lean in this throttle opening range to pass emissions.
So here is the real deal. If you open up the exhaust by any means, you will want to do something to get more fuel to the engine.
The 3 ways known, are having a dealer install a European map in your ECU (computer or electronic control unit), adding a piggyback fuel control unit (one more thing to fail and trust us they do) or using our TPS TOOL, to increase or decrease the amount of fuel going to your engine.
Using our TPS TOOL gives you the power to accurately control the amount of fuel and ignition timing going to your engine. This way you get to play with settings and increase or decrease the power delivery of your engine.
Using our TPS TOOL get's you the best mileage versus power as well. The European map cant give you any better power than you get from TPS tuning but will lose you about 15 - 20 miles of mileage per tank.
Piggyback tuners can't give you better power than TPS TUNING but can fail and ruin your day. The smartest people go for the sure thing, using our TPS tuning tool. Get it below for $79.95
In-Tank Fuel FilterAt this point, by using the STE-2 end cap and TPS Tuner to increase the amount of fuel to the engine - you will have yourself a radically different bike.
The bike will start easier, run cooler and you'll have more power and throttle response from idle all the way to wide open.
Doing all the changes listed above will get you the bike you wanted when you bought it. It takes about $600 to do all this.
The next addition, that most people make at this point, and we agree with the decision, is to add the Grunt Exhaust manifold.
Grunt Exhaust Manifold
The Grunt Exhaust Manifold is on the left above, and it replaces the stock manifold on the right.
It takes 15 minutes or so to bolt on, requires no changes in tuning, and helps a lot with power and quicker get up and go - right from idle and into mid.
It also works as well with the stock head pipe, as it does with aftermarket head pipes.
To learn more about the Grunt, click here.
Or you can pick one up for your bike below now, for only $89.95
The Fuel Rail
The addition of our new fuel rail is the next big improvement, as far as power, ease of starting and overall ride-ability goes.
The fuel rail is the piece that connects the fuel line, from your gas tank, to the fuel injector.
The stock fuel rail is very poorly designed and creates many fuel flow restrictions.
Our Red Anodized Fuel Rail shown below is a straight shot of un-interrupted fuel flow to the injector. And since the injector is what controls the fuel getting into your engine, it's important that it's not suffering for lack of fuel.
DirtBike Magazine said…
“The BDSB fuel rail is one of the best improvements you can make to your KTM offroad bike!”
And one of our Happy Customers put it best…
“For the $49.95 fuel rail cost, it was like $500 worth of results!”
Our High-Flow Fuel Rail is probably our #1 seller overall because it's so affordable, and quickly changes the way your bike moves fuel from the gas tank to the engine.
You can learn more about the fuel rails awesomeness, and see dyno charts by clicking here.
Or you can pick one up below now for only: $49.95
90-Degree "High Flow" Tank Fittings
The final piece you'll need to improve this part of your fuel system, is replacing the stock tank fitting… with our much better flowing, tricky 90-Degree “High Flow” Tank Fitting.
You can see the stock one on the left, below, and ours is on the right.
It should be easy to see how exposed the fuel line is to being ripped off by passing trees and such, leaving you stranded in the middle of nowhere.
Ours shoots the line back and inward so nothing can hurt it. It’s also the lowest profile 90-degree, and least expensive on the market.
It installs in minutes and fits all tanks, from stock to all the aftermarket tanks.
You can change it without draining the fuel, and it only leaks a few drops from the tank when changing.
Get the 90-Degree “High Flow” Tank Fitting below for only $49.95
The Fuel Bundle
If you want to get everything all at once, you can get the bundle kit with the Large Capacity Fuel Filter, the Fuel Rail, and the 90-Degree Tank Fitting below for only $149.95
Our 9 oz. and 11.2 oz. Clutch Weights sell A LOT to both 2-stroke and 4-stroke riders, especially in locations where things get tight and nasty.
Flywheel weights weren't really an option on these bikes, so the clutch weight was invented.
It's so cost effective and easy to install, versus a flywheel weight, we’re guessing that's why they sell so well.
Both sizes can be used with the stock clutch cover. They can be added or removed in minutes on the side of the trail, if needed.
Learn more about clutch weights here and pick which one is right for you.
In-Tank Fuel Filter
One of the biggest frustrations we hear from riders and professional race teams is the inadequacy of “stock” in-tank fuel filters.
In case you don’t know what they are, they are like the first line of defense for the fuel entering your bike.
Not only are the stock in-tank fuel filters a small size and low filtration level for these bikes - sooner or later they will split from the fuel injection pressure and break inside your tank - which means you’re going bike is going to be running poorly or not at all!
Take a look at how our yellow filter looks, compared to the stock brown one in the image below.
You’ll notice ours has twice the surface area. It’s also a much more appropriate 10 micron filter. Cars use 5 micron filters, and the stock ones in your bike use 40 micron. So obviously that’s letting way too large of particles through.
There’s a few other filters on the market that may seem like they would work, but be careful because they most likely can’t handle the 50 psi pressure the fuel injection system uses.
So unless you want to possibly take a long walk home because your stock filter blew apart for no reason, then we suggest just getting our tried-and-true filter replacement.
Next let’s talk about the crappy stock fuel pump that will also cause you issues or failures.
You can pick it up below for only $89.95
The stock fuel pumps that come on the new bikes are made in China and don’t work very well. Our fuel pumps are much better in quality, performance, and reliability.
And it’s almost impossible to find a better solution anywhere, so we sourced our In-Tank Fuel Filters from Taiwan, because the ones from China are no good.
Also - we test each fuel pump before shipping it out to you, just for quality assurance.
You can pick it up below for only $89.95
The "In-Tank Fuel Filter / Fuel Pump" Bundle
You can get the In-Tank Fuel Filter and the the Fuel Pump separately, or together in our bundle.
You can pick it up below for only $149.95