One of the most important things to know, before just throwing more fuel to your bike is, if you take the big, dumb reed assembly out of your intact tract, as you should, you will loose a lot of intake air velocity at low throttle openings.
There is no properly shaped intake tract in the world, that makes any kind of strong bottom end power, that has a huge rectangle as it's shape. All 4 stroke intake tracts are tubed shaped, about the same diameter as the throttle body, and have a tapered entrance.
That's why we made our INTAKE TUBE. To put in the big rectangle hole, after the reeds come out, and get the air velocity back.
IF YOU JUST REMOVE THE REEDS, AND DON'T USE THE INTAKE TUBE TO GET AIR VELOCITY BACK, YOU'LL ALWAYS HAVE A LACK OF RESPONSE AND BOTTOM END. NO MATTER HOW MUCH FUEL YOU ADD.
SPECIAL ANNOUNCEMENT: As of Feb 18th 2020 all of our fuel programmer’s now come with a programmable accelerator pump circuit. No one else has these!
This lets you control how much extra fuel is shot into the motor to mix with the extra air when you crack the throttle open quickly… which makes for more “get up and go” when you need it (rather than lagging or flaming out)!
Watch the video below for more info…
The reason these programmers are so appealing is because they can give you the same performance you get from expensive $700 aftermarket ECU’s, for only $189.95. This is probably why we sell so many of them.
In the picture below, is a piggyback fuel programmer, or fuel tuner. That means, it's an addition to the stock ECU (Engine Control Unit) and fuel system, and it actually stays on the bike.
It's importnat to note at this point, which bikes DO or DO NOT need these programmers, to get correct fuel THROUGH OUT the whole RPM range.
1. 2017 through 2020 450 , 500 , 501 EXC-F, XCF-W, FE, FE-S DOES need
2. 2017 through 2019 250 , 350 EXC-F, XCF-W, FE, FE-S DOES NOT need. On these bikes, you can get good fueling through out , by just doing TPS tuning. But this programmer does make a bit more power in the midrange, than doing tps tuning. So up to you.
3. 2020 350 EXC-F, XCF-W, FE, FE-S DOES need. TPS tuning does not work on the 2020 bikes
These programmers are the kind where you don’t need a computer to program it. There are 6 modes that you can choose from, to add or subtract fuel in the various “Areas” of running.
It's as simple as picking the Area, then pushing the + or - button to add or subtract fuel.
It’s so easy because we’ve already spent a lot of time on the dyno, collecting information using the air / fuel meter. We’ve done all the work that’s necessary, so you don’t have to.
Since we’ve already done all the setup work for you, we give you very easy to follow instructions that show you exactly what to do with the programming buttons for the 3 main stages of bike set up.
This tuner has been designed to work with, and provide the best fueling numbers you can get for:
1. A completely stock bike
2. A bike that just has the emissions disabled or removed, and has our Power End Cap or any other aftermarket exhaust attached.
3. A bike with an opened up intake and exhaust. Which means the reed assembly has been removed from the intake boot at the minimum, or at best, our Power Intake Tube has been installed.
Installation is as simple as this...
You will run the wires down the side of the bike. Then you un-clip the plug from the injector shown above.
Then you plug the end of the programmer that fits, into the injector. You then plug the other wire from the injector, into the remaining wire of the programmer.
Finally there is one last wire coming out of the programmer. It just gets attached to the battery ground and that's it! Turn the key to the bike on, and if the green lights come on the front of the programmer, it's all hooked up!
As you can see, the installation is quite easy. But there are two very important things to note here:
This programmer has all its base settings designed for the stock EXC map. If you have the Euro map installed in your ECU, adding this programmer will make the bike run WAY too rich. So please don’t do that.
This unit is designed to be used on a stock ECU with stock TPS settings. Which means if you have changed your TPS settings, you can still enjoy the top end performance gains of this programmer, but the TPS MUST be set back in the range of .49 - .57. If not, the bike will likely not run well.
If you want to know how our programmer works against the Vortex ECU, with all of the work we did figuring out the internal software numbers… well, here it is:
The programmer is the orange line and the Vortex is the blue. The bottom graph is the Air/Fuel numbers, that match up with the dyno pull as it grows over the rpm range.
There are two main things to note here.
Both lines are pretty flat, which is good because it took a while figuring out the software programming.
The vortex fuel line, runs in the range of 13.6 - 13.8 air / fuel ratio all the way through the rpm range. This programmer runs in the 12.8 - 13.2 range. Which most real engine builders know is the best AFR ratio for power.
So the conclusion is, it's not "snake oil" or some band aid fix. The bike just wants a little more fuel than the vortex gives it. It's simple. And that's the only reason our Fuel Programmer is better.
Now the Vortex has it's RPM limit raised from the 9200 rpm which is stock, to 10,200, and that's why you see it run out a bit further. But since the power has long since died off, due to some other holdback like a small camshaft profile, it's not a gain at all.
And if you wonder how our programmer stacks up against other programmers like it, sold by other places with their software in it, well that's the lines you see on the dyno chart below.
Of course we bought one of the competitors units, to see what we were up against before we even spent a lot of time with it. If we can't give you better, then why waste our time and your money?
And the buttons on the unit can't even come close to adding enough fuel in the right areas and getting all the switch points right, to get to where we are. That's why all the work had to be put into it, to get it great.
Also, even though our unit is designed around our other products, such as the exhaust and intake so you can just buy them and know they work together… it also works just as well with other mufflers and airboots.
A final note: All this wide open stuff is neat, but it's less valuable info in the real world. We have also improved starting, idling, and given the bike a smooth strong pull throughout the riding range - and we kept the air/fuel ratios around 13:6 - 14:1 at easy cruising speeds so you aren't wasting mileage.
No offense, but if you are trying to tune by the seat of your pants with these things, you wouldn't know the difference between riding around at 12:1 and 14:1, but at 12:1, you'll run about 10% less mileage.
These are all things we've already figured out and fixed for you. So you can just get it, follow the instructions on how to push the buttons to accommodate your state of tune, and enjoy with confidence!
The air is what carries the fuel into the engine. Slow air equals slow fuel equals not enough, and the motor goes BLAHHHHHHHH