These instructions and settings, are for the newest programmer with a "Pin It" face plate, or for a BDSB faceplate that says "R3L" in the corner. Same programmer, just a different faceplate
THE SETTINGS FOR THE PROGRAMMER, FOR THE VARIOUS BIKE MODELS AND YEARS, ARE AT THE BOTTOM OF THIS PAGE, WHERE IT SAYS "CHEAT SHEET". THESE FIRST FEW PAGES, JUST SHOW YOU HOW TO INSTALL AND USE THE BUTTONS. PROGRAMMERS ARE DESIGNED TO BE USED WITH STOCK FUEL PRESSURE OF 50-52 PSI AND NOT LOWER PRESSURE.
This programmer is designed to stay on the bike and the easiest place to put it is inside the airbox cover. It comes with double stick velcro to make this easy.
The newest programmer has an R3 in the upper left corner. This means it has the latest and most robust electronics. This electronics package works best with the KTM's electronics. This programmer has 6 modes.
Mode 1. Green mode. Let's you add 0-14% fuel when the bike is running with the green LED ON.
Mode 2. Yellow mode. Lets you add 0-28% fuel when bike is running with the yellow light on
Mode 3. Red mode. Lets you add 0 - 28% fuel when bike is running with the red light on.
Mode 4. Green blue mode. This is you accelerator pump adjustment.
Mode 5. Yellow blue mode. This is the switch to turn on the yellow mode 2
Mode 6. Red blue mode. This is the switch to turn on the red mode 3
The 2 clips of the unit plug in between the stock injector clip and the stock injector. Unplug your clip from the injector and plug into the one coming from the unit.
Now just plug the other 2 together and you are done with this part. Run the wires inside the frame rails so they are contained.
The last step in the installation is to just secure the black wire to the battery ground cable.
When you start the bike, the lights will come on on the left and right side of the screen. The led on the left is #1 and on the right is #8. The lights lighting up is showing you that you have power to the unit
When you push the “mode” button in the center, you’ll notice that the lights that come on the screen change colors. First GREEN lights come on, then when you push the mode button again, to switch to the next mode, yellow lights come on, then red, then green-blue and so on. Then back to green.
This is how you switch to various areas, which can change the fueling.
A few very important things to know at this point are:
1. We’ve spent a lot of time with the dyno and the Air/Fuel ration meter, and real world riding, to make sure the base software in the unit is in the perfect starting position to give you the best results.
2. This unit cover various models and the final "mode" settings are how you adapt it from one model or year to another. The final mode, or LED settings, fine tune the amount of fuel added, from our well written base program. So it's best just to follow, or be close to the area of the recommended settings
When you first start the bike, The lights will come on on both sides. This means there is power getting to the programmer and it is working
Push the mode button once and the green light comes on. when light 1 is on, there is no fuel added and when light 8 is on, there is 14% fuel added.
So each full light move to the right ( push + button ) adds 2% fuel and each half move ( say for example light 2 and 3 lit ) adds 1% fuel.
Follow the setting ideas on the cheat sheet at the bottom of this page, as all years are different.
On 2020-23 bikes with Oxygen sensors in the headpipe, no fuel will be added in this green low rpm zone until the 02 sensor is removed.
Just adding the 02 delete, adds some needed fuel. So depending on your setup and your bikes particular injector flow (they are all over the place) you may not even need to add more fuel with the programmers Green Mode.
You can push the minus button, when you are in the Green mode, until the first led is blinking as fast as it will blink, and then you are adding zero extra fuel.
Push the mode button one more time and you go into the yellow led. The yellow mode is designed to add fuel into the mid range portion of the rpm's.
This lets you add more fuel, when it is needed, to get that strong pull through the mid range. Then you will transfer into the next mode, the red mode.
Moving the the LED setting to the right, with the + button, adds fuel and to the left with the - button, removes fuel.
You need to make sure the yellow zone is turning on at the right time ( rpm ) so it even comes into effect
Push the mode button one more time and the red LED comes on. This is the exact same scenario as the yellow led, but the red zone add fuel at the very top end of the RPM range.
Now comes the accelerator pump circuit. Push the mode button one more time and the green blue come up. This is the adjustable accelerator pump circuit.
This is proprietary to us and no one else has this. If you move to the right with the + button, you get more fuel during the accelerator pump squirt. Move to the left with the - button and you get less fuel.
You are welcome to experiment with this, to get the desired instant response you are looking for
Now to the yellow blue zone. This is the RPM based switch point, to turn on the yellow circuit. We try to turn on the yellow zone around 6000 rpm on many of the applications
If you were to move this led to the right to far, there is a chance the yellow zone would never come on.
Moving to the right raises the RPM that the yellow zone comes on. Our pre determined settings here are key to a strong running bike.
The red blue mode does the same thing as the yellow blue. It sets the rpm at which the red zone turns on. This is something it's better to use our suggestions.
For example, our settings on a 2021 500 excf with open exhaust and open intake ( reeds out of intake tract ) say set this at LED #7. This is because this turns on the red zone at 8000 rpm until 11,000 rpm. This, along with the right yellow zone turn on rpm, makes a flat air fuel curve when you get on the gas. This makes sure all areas are doing their job and you have a nice flat fuel curve.
This makes for a strong pulling bike.
Fuel Programmer Instruction Cheat Sheet
These settings are for the programmer that has the R 3 L
written in the upper left corner.
2017 - 19 500 / 501 | For opened exhaust and intake ( reeds out of air boot ) with our intake tube
Green 5, Yellow 4 , Red 4 , Green blue 4, Yellow blue 2, Red blue 2
2017 -19 250 /350 | For open exhaust and intake and using our intake tube
Green 5, Yellow 3, Red 3, Green blue 5, Yellow blue 2, Red blue 4.5
2017 - 19 450 EXC-F and FE-S | For open exhaust and intake and using our intake tube
Green 3 , Yellow 3, Red 3 , Green blue 4 , Yellow blue 2 , Red blue 2
2020 -23 USA / CANADA spec bikes | for open exhaust and intake using our intake tube and NO O2 delete dongle
Your bike will have all the fuel it needs from midrange on up, but if you feel any kind of surge, or hiccup or constant backfiring when letting off the gas, you'll have to add the 02 delete to fix this. Those are all signs of being lean
500 / 501 - Green 1 , Yellow 4, Red 5, Green blue 4.5, Yellow blue 5, Red blue 2
350 - Green 1 , Yellow 6, Red 7, Green blue 4.5, Yellow blue 2 , red blue 2
2020 -23 USA / CANADA bikes for open exhaust and intake using our intake tube and USING O2 delete dongle
The best thing you can do with your bike, is play with the first programmer mode a bit ( green led ). Some customers are happiest at 2 and some people's set ups ,seem to need more fuel down low, and some people are up to led 5 and have found their happy spot.
So please, before you call and say " my bike has a hesitation or a backfire or whatever, down low", please try moving the green led around to solve your problem.
500 / 501 - Green 6 , Yellow 3, Red 3, Green blue 1, Yellow blue 5, Red blue 2
350 - Green 5 , Yellow 5, Red 5, Green blue 1, Yellow blue 2 , red blue 2
For Euro spec and Aus spec bikes,
500 / 501 - Green between 2 and 4 , Yellow 3, Red 3, Green blue 4.5, Yellow blue 5, Red blue 3
350 - Green between 2 and 4 , Yellow 4, Red 3, Green blue 4.5, Yellow blue 2 , red blue 2