With this kit, you will be moving the fuel injectors from the sides of the cylinder to in between the throttle body and reed cage. Now, the bike will have lubrication when ever it’s running, and it will run better. You may end up turning your idle air screw in or out, to get the idle speed you want, when finished. You will re use the stock gasket between the new injector block and the crankcase, and use RTV silicone between the rubber throttle body boot and injector block. You could use the stock green gasket, but using silicone will shorten up the intake tract by the thickness of the gasket, and this will improve throttle response a bit.
These are the parts you get. The block, all the bolts needed, 4 hose clamps if needed, and the 2 plugs for the cylinder ports.
To have a clean, open work space, it’s really best to get to this point on the bike. Remove the tank and shrouds and seat. Remove the muffler and even the pipe if if you want. Then remove the lower two subframe bolts and loosen the top two.
Loosen the clamp that holds the airboot to the throttle body and lift the subframe up. The airboot likes to stick on the throttle body, so you may want to help it off with a flat blade screwdriver. Use a tie down or something to hold the subframe up if it keeps falling down.
Remove the injector from each side. They are held down by a 8mm head bolt. Pull and wiggle and they will come out.
Squeeze the sides of the gray wire clip together and pull the clips off of the injectors.
If you expand and pull on the metal clip, then it will release the injector and you can pull it out of the stock fuel rail.
On the right, you see the injector hole plug we supply being inserted into the stock injector hole. Install dry or with some rtv silicone on it. Tighten down. It will finally quit spinning in the hole and your good. You don’t need silicone but some people just feel better about it.
Now loosen the clamp that holds the throttle body in the rubber boot and pull it out. Remove the 4 8mm head bolts that hold the reed assembly to the crankcase and pull the rubber boot and reeds out.
The hardest part about this is just keeping the throttle body out of the way while doing this.
Remove the 4 small torx head screws that hold the 2 parts of the reed block together.
Transfer the O ring from the plastic stock plate, to the new plate. You’ll have to pick it out with something little like this screwdriver.
It’s already in place on the new plate here.
You’ll take the other part of the reed block and fasten to the new plate with the same torx head screws.
Of course now would be the time to change the reeds, if you had bought our Power reeds.
You HAVE to use the stock reed cage for this application. They are the only ones that come apart so you can just use the reeds and reed block. All other aftermarket reed cage assemblies do not come apart
The rest of the procedure is pretty easy. The injectors fit into the new block as so. You can grease the o rings on the injectors if you want.
The top plate fits on and screws to the main plate with the 2 smaller allen head screws in the kit. It doesn’t not matter which injector goes where.
Also, the injectors have flimsy little dust seals on them and it doesn’t matter whether you use them or not. Here, they are not on the injectors. You’ll re-use your stock green gasket between the new assembly here and the engine.
You can re-use the other green gasket between the rubber boot and new plate if you want, but leaving it out and just using RTV silicone to seal this area, will make the bike a bit snappier with throttle response.
This is because the distance is a bit shorter between the throttle plate and the reeds.
You will use the longer allen bolts supplied in the kit to bolt this all together. If the oil line to the throttle body is laying on the new block, then you may want to wrap some tape around it to keep it from rubbing.
The last thing you’ll do is make your new fuel line. The part from the tank to the quick disconnect will remain the same.
You’ll take one of the fuel lines here, from your stock fuel line setup (on the left side of pic ) and make the other little curved line you see between the new block and filter. Since they are already pre curved, it’s easy to take one of them.
It can get cut a bit shorter as well, so it fits clean and nice. You can see how it shapes out when done, here in the pic. You’ll use the hose clamps for this where needed. It doesn’t not matter which gray injector electrical clip goes on which injector.