THE ULTIMATE BIKE BUILD
2024-25 KTM / HUSKY / GAS GAS 350 / 500 / 501
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Before getting started, let's clear one thing up right now. YES we can remap your STOCK ecu. We can remap / reprogram A LOT of stock KTM / HUSKY and GAS GAS ecu's. Nothing in this world is locked if you have the right tools and the combination to get in there.
Only a few of us can do this. The rest of the world tries to convince you that you need to buy some super high dollar ECU for these things. Just keep in mind that, that's all they have to sell you, since they can't do the more effective ECU reprogramming we have.
It's going to cost you around $1000, so they can make their $150 profit, on an ecu that performs, and is less durable, than our reprogramming.
We could sell those things just as easy. But we don't because we have no interest in knowing we've ripped someone off, for three times the money, for less performance.
Our stock reprogrammed ECUs, can be used with the 2024 KTM SXF model map switch. This gives you 4 maps, traction control and the option to use the Quick Shift feature.
This will be further discussed later, but it gives us the ability to easily fix all of the bikes running problems.
Now let's move on!
Handlebar Vibration Dampers
If you do anything to this bike. Anything at all. Get the handlebar vibration dampers here. They make riding the bike ohhhh, so much nicer. Getting rid of the majority of the vibration and shocks, that get to your hands, really helps you enjoy the bike.
These do NOT FIT the KTM 6 days models or any HUSKY bikes. They have differnet kinds of clamps.
In stock form, the handlebar clamp bolts to the top triple clamp, with just a metal to metal mount. You can see this in the image gallery. The left hand side is just a bolt going through a hole. On the right side though, you can see our pink bumper installed.
Lithium Ion Batter
The next thing that is a "must do", is to get rid of the stock, cheap, garbage battery. Replace it with this one. The BS Lithium Ion 02 Max Battery. It has more amp hours and higher cranking amps than the stock battery, and it fits in the stock battery compartment.
These bikes don't have a kickstarter, so the battery is your best friend. It's all you have to get it started. The bike can turn over 50 rpm to slow, and it won't start.
Additionally, the cells in the stock battery are known to break, causing intermittent voltage loss. This ofcourse causes intermittent eng dying and stutters.
Non-Thermostat Coolant Tube
One of the next things, you may want to do to this bike, is get rid of the the thermostat. You can see in the image gallery, the stock thermostat coolant tube on the left, and the straight through non-thermostat coolant tube on the right.
The stock exhaust end cap on this bike is very restrictive. If you take all the pressure that comes out of a large 500 cc piston, and don't let it out of the exhaust pipe, heat quickly builds up.
If you want to ride the bike around in stock form, it will still flame out and stall, but this non-thermostat coolant tube will help lower the engine temp 10 degrees or so.
Also if the bike is modified, you would want to do this in temps over 80 degrees. Especially if you will be riding in singletrack and have no air flow through the radiators. The fan will be on a lot and this wil help.
The 3 biggest Complaints
The biggest complaints on these bikes, are the complaints we specialize in fixing.
Complaint #1
The bike feels choked up
Answer
It is. We can get rid of that and make it as fast as anything out there, for less than $600, with our basic power bundle. In fact, not only will it make it as fast as you'd ever want, but it will fix these other complaints, at the same time.
Complaint #2
The bike stalls whenever it feels like it
Complaint #3
The bike runs hot.
Please understand that there are 3 main parts to the problems, and every one of them needs to be fixed at the same time. Just fixing one will not only not fix the problems, but may make them worse.
To understand the situation better, all you need to know is, KTM did what they had to do, to sell you a street legal, and 50 state legal bike. It has to be quiet, to pass the EPA's drive by sound test and it has to put out little emissions, to satisfy California and other state's emissions laws.
So... KTM decided to highly limit the air that gets into the engine, but placing a reed valve assembly from the 2 stroke engine, in the intake tract. It limits the incoming air by 25% or so, which also limits intake air noise and power by about the same amount.
Because of the limited intake air, the exhaust can be much more restricted. This ofcourse, makes the bike quiter, but also run a lot hotter.
The lower amount of air moving through the engine, means it doesn't need near the amount of fuel, to produce it's already to lean mixture.
The regulations are then met. Lower noise and cleaner burning. Yay. And so you get all the complaints we have listed here.
Power Bundle
On the DYNO chart here, you can see the enormous gain in power you get from our simple power bundle, for less that $600. First we let all the air in with the intake tube and out with the end cap. Then we just add the right amount of fuel and ignition timing for the increased air and hold on.
The complaints are no more.
You will need to buy the map switch if you don't have one, to acces both maps, the traction control and the quick shift feature, if you choose to add. Without a switch, it will come in the full power map
Purchase Power Bundle with Mapping
- or -
Purchase ECU Mapping Only
It's obvious in the picture of the stock exhaust here, how restrictive the exhaust outlet is. It's restrictive on the inside of the cap as well. The only restriction in the entire exhaust system is the cap!
Power End Cap
Our Power End Cap is available in silver or black, and can be purchased alone, or as part of our power bundle. You can see from the picture of it taken apart that there is no restriction. It finally sounds much more like a dirt bike and has a forestry approved spark arrestor.
One key thing about ours, over the others or slip on mufflers, is that ours is designed to not burn the stock turn signals. The other ones will burn them right off.
Here we have the stock reed cage assembly being removed from the stock air boot. You can see that a big square hole is left when the reeds are out.
Although this will let the engine breath in all the air it needs, the large shape is not conducive to high intake air velocities at the lower throttle openings. Therefore your bottom end response will suffer by only taking out the reed cage.
Power Intake Tube
You can easily get your bottom end response back though. All you need to do is install our intake tube, to get the intake air velocity back up to speed.
It just slides in place and gets the intake tract, back to the shape of every high performance intake known to man. Which is a hole about the size of the throat of the throttle body.
Just like the air boot you see from the race bikes shown here. A fast moving intake air velocity really helps improve bottom end throttle response. It's a very important fix and part of the power improvement puzzle.
ECU Remapping
Now that we have managed to get about 25% more air into and out of the engine, we just need to add fuel and ignition timing to compensate for that.
That's where the ECU reprogramming comes in. Located right under your seat, you just unclip it from the wiring harness and send it in for fixing.
If you don't want to wait for mapping to be performed on your stock ECU, or simply want to keep a stock ECU on hand, well then many times we have pre-mapped ECU cores ready to ship. You can always send your stock ECU back to us within 30 days of your purchase for a $300 credit back.
Map Switch
The 2024 and 2025 bike mappings all come with 4 maps in the ECU after we get done with it. You have the default map, which is the map the bike will run in if not using a switch. This is the white map on the switch. It is the full power map and is designed for 91 octane fuel or higher. If you have the switch then you can access the green map.
The green map is designed for traveling and for slightly less power. You can use 87 octane fuel with the green map. It is also leaner throughout, so you'll get a bit better mileage. You can turn on traction control, in both maps. Traction control slows power above 4000 rpm, to help control wheel spin.
So 2 maps and 2 altered maps when TC is on, equals 4 maps The 2 power maps, the traction control feature, and the quick shift feature, are all available to you with this one handlebar mounted map switch.
Fuel Filter Rail
At this point, some protection in the fuel system is needed. The plastic, kinked up, stock fuel rail, not only retards fuel delivery but has a history of breaking in cold temps. Temps around 50 degrees or colder.
If this happens, which you are trying to change your little stock, worthless inline filter, you are stranded. So, as you see here, we have made the ultimate solution.
I'm a paragraph. Click here to add your own text and edit me. It's easy.
Here you you can see how the clamp on version fits (the fuel line just clamping on) and in the image next to it you can see how the filter fits if using the stock quick disconnect on it.
Purchase Clamp-On Fuel Filter Rail
Here you see the original version of the straight shot fuel rail and large area fuel filter. The is what you would use on the 350 bikes, since the Fuel Filter Rail only fits the 500's.
You can use this 2 piece kit, on any 2017-25 250 / 350 / 450 / 500 / 501 as well. We have clamp on filters for the 2024-25 bikes and quick disconnect filters for all bikes.
At this point you are running pretty good and have pretty good protection. You may find, like a lot of people, that you just want the bike to be more forgiving in the power delivery department, at the lower throttle openings. You may feel like the bike is "throbby", or you feel the power pulses of that big engine.
Well, if you want a simple way to fix that, just use our 11 ounce clutch pressure plate, you see below
It's a heavy steel replacement for your light aluminum outside pressure plate. This replaces the aluminum plate and first steel clutch plate. Because you are adding a decent amount of rotating weight, at the largest rotating diameter, this product is EXTREMELY EFFECTIVE at it's job.
It makes throttle response smoother and less herky jerky right off idle.
You can modulate riding smoothly, much more with the throttle now, instead of having to use the clutch
Stalling and flameouts are reduced. This doesn't take the place of getting the fueling and igniton timing correct, with the ecu, but helps big time if that's close
Noticably reduces the pulasting part of the bigger engines, even when just cruising at highway speeds
Buy weight here link
Along with the clutch pressure plate, go ahead and start using Valvoline VR 1 10- 40 W in winter or 20-50 W in summer. It has a high level of Zinc for protection, instead of a higher level of Moly in the newer oils. This will definitley help your clutch life and reduce the blueing of the clutch's steel plates