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KTM 390 Adventure Fuel Programmer

Instructions for installing the Best Dual Sport Bikes fuel programmer for the KTM 390 Adventure. This is a fuel tuner that stays on your bike. We have spent a lot of time getting the correct software written for it, so that it will provide you with the optimum amount of fuel and greatest power output, for various stages of modification for your KTM 390 Adventure Bike.

Here you see the fuel programmer in a great area to fasten it down. You will get some 2 sided velcro with the programmer. Use it to stick the programmer to the back of the air box, below the battery. You also see the ground wire of the programmer here, connected to the battery ground. This is the best place to connect it.

390 programmer 1.PNG

Here you see how the injector wires plug in.
The grey plug up top is the stock wiring plug
that you will disconnect from the injector.


The new lighter grey colored plug from the
piggy back unit now plugs onto the injector
and the stock wiring clip plugs into the other
side of the piggy back harness.


The injector is locate under the gas tank and
you’ll see it on the throttle body.


You don’t have to take the tank all the way
o, but you’ll need to take off the seat and
radiator shrouds to lift the tank up enough
to gain access the injector clip.

390 programmer 2.PNG

When you turn the power on, lights will start ashing on the screen. There are 6 modes. Hit the mode button, and the first mode (green lights) will come on. It doesn’t matter where they light up, but you’ll want them in the 4 and 5 position when we are done.


If the light is in the 1 position (far left), push the + until positions 4 and 5 are illuminated. If you need to move the lights to the left, push the - button.

This is the 2nd mode, which is YELLOW lights. They will be set on 4 and 5 as well. Every mode, EXCEPT the 3rd mode (RED lights), will be set on the 4 and 5 position.

The 3rd mode, RED lights, you will want to set to the
number 3 position (one light). This will provide an AIR/FUEL ratio of 12.5:1 when the bike is running above 7500 RPMs. This is true whether you are running an open exhaust or using our end cap. It runs in the same area with the stock header or De-cat header and stock airbox lid or more of an open lid.

If you set the Red lights at 4 and 5, this would increase the fuel above 7500rpm and the AIR/FUEL ratio would be in the 11.5:1 range...and that is too rich.

What you need to know about setting the programmer is this; We have tested a lot, and wrote the base program for this programmer. You can mess around with it if you want, but our settings are pretty solid and proven, and I wouldn’t stray from them. 

If you add more fuel to the accelerator pump circuit, there is a good chance that the settings we have will produce a more sluggish feel, or the engine light will come on after a while. This is because you are trying to give the bike too much fuel in the closed loop mode, the o2 sensor is trying to compensate for it. After trying to compensate for too long, the sensor tells the ECU something is wrong and the engine light comes on. You would have to get an OBD2 scanner tool at this point to erase the code.


The first three modes dictate the AMOUNT of fuel being provided. 

- The GREEN light is the amount of fuel when the accelerator pump turns on. The green light on #8 position will give the bike a lot more fuel when you crack the gas vs the #1 position. 

- The YELLOW light is the amount of fuel the accelerator circuit gets when it shuts off. 

- The RED light is the amount of fuel the bike gets when the bike runs over 7500 RPM with our settings.


The last three modes, (4,5 & 6), are the switch points, or when each off the first 3 modes turns on. These are dictated by the green/blue, yellow/blue and red/blue lights. These modes are RPM based. 

- Green/Blue is when the accelerator pump turns on. The 4 and 5 position turn it on at 2,500 RPM.
 
- Yellow/Blue controls when the pump turns off. Our setting turns it off at 8,000 RPM. Move this to position 6 and it would turn off at about 9,000 RPM. 

- Red/Blue controls what RPM the added top end fuel turns on. We have it set at 7,500 RPM. If you lower the light to the number 3 position, it would turn on at about 6,000 RPM. The problem is, the bike would still be in closed loop mode, and try to fight the extra fuel being added, triggering an engine light to come on.

LONG STORY SHORT, THE SETTING ARE WELL FIGURED OUT AND CAUSE NO PROBLEMS, ONLY IMPROVEMENTS, SO WE STRONGLY ADVISE NOT TO MESS WITH THEM.

If your bike is 2nd stage of modification, which would be the opening up of the intake tract, by the removal of the reeds, then you will definitely need more fuel at this point. Please adjust the fueling by following the steps below

1. With the bike on or idling, push the mode button and the green lights will show up. Before they go away, push the minus button until the green light is in position 3.

Pushing the minus button actually leans the bike out in this range. The green button signifies the fuel it gets when cruising. This is basically easy throttle movements below 1/2 throttle. Even if you are going down the highway in 6th gear at 65 mph. If your throttle changes are slow and you are below 1/2 throttle, you are in the green zone. Bye opening the intake and using our Power Intake Tube, the air moves so much easier, it actually requires less fuel now, in this zone.

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2. Now push the “mode” button again. This moves you from the Green light mode, which is fuel for the “cruise” mode, into the Yellow light mode. The Yellow light means you are on the gas and accelerating when you see them on the unit.

When you get the unit, the yellow lights will be lit up on the 4 and 5 position. This means it’s set on 4 1/2. You will want to push the “plus” two times. You will see the lights move to positions 5 and 6. This means you richened up the bike. Now you have added fuel in this range to compensate for the extra air added by opening up the intake tract.

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3. Now push the “mode” button again and it takes you to the red lights. You will want to push the “plus” button until lights 5 and 6 are both lit up. When you move the lights to the right, with the plus button, you add more fuel. This will set the air/fuel ratio perfectly, for when you have the throttle wide open and the bike get’s into the high rpm’s

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4. Push the “mode” button again, and you enter the last 3 modes, whichare the choosing of when the first 3 zones turn on. When you get into the“switch on” modes, you’ll get a blue light on the far right, to let you know your in these modes.

The combo of the green lights and blue light, let you know you are inthe mode that controls "accelerator pump strength".

The further you move the green led to the right in this mode, the morefuel you'll get when the accelerator pump turns on. The further you move to the left, the less fuel you'll get. Some people add fuel if getting too many flameouts or if in deep sand. You can use less fuel too to get better mileage. The range of 4 to 5 works well for most people.

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5. Now you push the “mode” button again and the lights switch to yellow and blue. Here you want to push the “minus” button, until the yellow light is on #3. 

What this does, is lower the amount of time it takes for the richer, yellow zone to turn on. When the green light turns off and the yellow turns on, extra fuel is added. What we did, was turn on the yellow zone sooner, which adds more fuel sooner, when you get on the gas.

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6. The last “mode” to program, is the red and blue lights. Even though youcan’t see the blue light in this pic, you will want to push the “minus” button, until the red light is in the #2 spot. 

Just like the yellow switch point, moving the light down to a lower number, makes that zone turn on sooner, when hard on the gas, or at throttle openings closer to wide open. This will make sure you have all the fuel you need now, for the open exhaust and intake, when at the higher throttle openings.

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Fuel Programmer Instruction Cheat Sheet

2017 - 19 500 / 501 | For opened exhaust and intake ( reeds out of air boot ) with our intake tube

 

Green 4, Yellow 6 , Red 6 , Green blue 4, Yellow blue 2, Red blue 2

2017 -19 250 /350 | For open exhaust and intake and using our intake tube
Green 4, Yellow 2, Red 2, Green blue 4, Yellow blue 2, Red blue 4.5

 

 

 

2017 - 19 450 EXC-F and FE-S | For open exhaust and intake and using our intake tube
Green 3 , Yellow 5, Red 5 , Green blue 4 , Yellow blue 2 , Red blue 2

2020 -22 USA / CANADA spec bikes | for open exhaust and intake using our intake tube

500 / 501 - Green 5, Yellow 4, Red 6, Green blue 4, Yellow blue 2, Red blue 2


350 - Green 5, Yellow 7, Red 7, Green blue 4, Yellow blue 2 , red blue 2

For Euro spec and Aus spec bikes, we don’t get to test with them specically , so just take feedback from
happy customers. So basically nd your bike on this list from above , and start settings 1-2 settings leaner
than the USA spec settings. You can play from there